That espadrilles are ideal for summer is nothing new. Rope-soled shoes have been go-to footwear in warm weather since the 13th century. Created in the Basque Country, the name comes from the word “esparto”, a type of grass found in southern Europe and North Africa which was originally used to weave the soles.
This year’s love affair with espadrilles (also known as alpargatas) feels different though. Perhaps it’s because travel has largely returned to normal; maybe it’s the back-to-back heatwaves; or something to do with the fact that lightly-scuffed Loewe and Chanel espadrilles are the shoes of choice for the well heeled at Soho Roc House Mykonos and Club 55 St Tropez. Either way, the romance of a humble jute sole has never been more appealing.
It’s also democratic. The espadrille is ageless, timeless, classless and genderless. They were the footwear of choice for Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali (the surrealist was so synonymous with the shoe, Penelope Chilvers’ signature espadrille is named after him). JFK wore them in Cape Cod. Grace Kelly had a pair in To Catch a Thief. Then in the Seventies, Yves Saint Laurent inspired a new generation of espadrille lovers when he commissioned a wedge style from Spanish espadrille maker Castañer; the “Carina” remains a favourite with royals including Queen Letizia of Spain and Sophie, Countess of Wessex, as well as the Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex.
“There’s something nostalgic about an espadrille,” says Amy Williams, founder of British footwear label Drilles. “I think about the simple canvas versions you might have had as a child – bought for a few Francs on a family camping holiday, worn to death in a fortnight and discarded as soon as you started packing for home.” Her elegant leather iterations (from £149, drilles.com) are designed with more endurance in mind, with a cushioned sole and leather lining, available in a rainbow of vibrant colours.
If you want the real deal, Spain remains the best place to buy them – Casa Hernanz in Madrid and La Manual Alpargatera in Barcelona are the most famous destinations – but you don’t need to suffer a 5am Ryanair flight to get your hands on an authentic pair; if you need them in time for the weekend, you can get a pair of Gaimo sandals (£60, selfridges.com) or Castañer ankle tie flats (£90, net-a-porter.com) quicker than you can say next-day delivery.
As with many fashion trends, carrying off an espadrille well is as much about how you wear it as what you wear. Styled wrong, those wedge styles can come off a little frumpy – but it’s easily avoided if you know how…
Don’t… choose a wedge style that’s too high. The espadrille is a relaxed shoe, so you should go for a height in which you can walk. If you feel at ease, you’ll look at ease.
Do… consider an espadrille flatform – and not just because it’ll add an inch or so to your height without hurting your feet. A chunky sole means more jute rope, and what could be more stylish than that?
Don’t… wear espadrilles in a corporate environment – unless your office has a more relaxed dress code. This is off-duty footwear and those middle-ground court shoe-style designs with an espadrille sole don’t look quite right in the office or on the beach.
Do… embrace the “dresspadrille” for summer weddings though, especially if it’s a laid-back country affair. Penelope Chilvers’ Valenciana Dali style (£129, penelopechilvers.com), with its contrasting velvet ribbons, is suitably festive. “For men, a version in leather or with a discreet pattern like stripes will lend flair to your evening look,” says Stephen Doig, The Telegraph’s men’s style editor. “Worn with white trousers and a simple polo shirt you'll give the most elegant Italian bello uomo a run for his money.”
Don’t… wear espadrilles in the rain: “Jute soles lose their shape when they get soggy. They’ll still be wearable, just not so pristine,” says Williams.
Do… try an espadrille plimsoll if you’re more comfortable in trainers. Superga’s are the best and they’re affordable too (£67, superga.com).
Don’t… Wear them with socks – only Dali can carry that look off.
Do… Know when to say goodbye. There’s a point at which your battered old espadrilles are no longer charming. Put them in the bin and embrace the joy of choosing a new pair – with so many variations of offer right now, there’s never been a better time for it.
Take your first step into espadrilles
1. The wedge
If you’ve been at a loss for what to wear with your summer dresses, allow me to introduce Carina. She’s the original rope sole wedge and a modern classic. Unless the balls of your feet are made from steel, opt for the 60cm height.
2. The flatform
This is perfect for wide-legged trousers; that chunky rope sole will just peek through as you walk, and the extra height will make your legs look endless. LK Bennett’s are an affordable option if you want the look of a Chanel pair without the price tag.
3. The designer statement
If you want a pair with a bit more swagger and you have the budget, follow in the rope-soled footsteps of the A-list and consider a designer pair. Katie Holmes and Kendall Jenner wear the £620 Chanel versions, but the Loewe and Saint Laurent versions are just as covetable.
4. The slide
For absolute summer ease, a slide-style sandal with a jute sole is the way to go. Wear these with rolled-up jeans, maxi dresses, or even just your swimwear and a cover-up. There are no rules with the slide, so let your imagination run wild.
- Guanabana hand woven espadrilles, £125, toa.st
5. Flat with ties
Arguably the most elegant of all the variations on the espadrille - and the most versatile too as it can be worn with almost anything. Try midi skirts and dresses, or cropped trousers to show off the ribbons laced around your ankle. “I also like mixing up the ways in which to tie up the laces,” says footwear designer Penelope Chilvers. “A high bow on the front, low bow on the back, low bow on the front or a cute side bow.”
6. The espadrille man
The classic espadrille shoe is a summer essential that transcends every occasion. Wear them when a flip-flop is too casual, a loafer is too heavy and a trainer won’t get you past the doorman. They’re a sophisticated choice too – seen on Sean Connery as James Bond in Thunderball, and Jude Law’s Dickie Greenleaf in the Talented Mr Ripley. “They evoke a kind of raffish ease,” says Doig. “And given the fact that men tend to not take care of their feet, they serve a practical purpose too.”
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